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THE TWENTIETH 




CENTURY 




RABBIT GUIDE 






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BY 




E. A. SAMUELSON. 


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A remarkable treatise on the care and manage- 
ment of all species of rabbits in Health and Disease, 
for pets or for the market. 


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PREFACE 



ti 

7. ♦ ' 

V ♦♦♦ 

♦ ♦!♦ « 

% The Twentieth Century Rabbit Guide is a recognized |* 

*J* authoritj^ of the rabbit fancy which has become a most popular *> ' 

♦> hobby and a profitable one to those who have really studied ♦♦♦ 

4^ the subject. *^ 

*i* This book is gotten out in an endeavor to further the in- *^ 

*j* du^try and to help those v^hose experiences may be in need *** 

*> of carefully compiled statistics. ♦> 

*j* ♦ , 

*> The illustrations to be found in this edition are those ♦ 

♦> of rabbits which at present are holding their own in the ♦> 

*J* exhibition world and those used as a table conmiodity. *t* 

'^ The subjects treated herein are given in the best of faith *{* 

<♦ and are those that are absolutely essential to the successful *♦* 

♦:♦ breeding of stock, and to eliminate as much as possible any <♦ 

^ chance of speculation and loss. *♦* 

+j» To find favor amongst the fanciers and breeders is its ^ 

*3* earnest endeavor. *f 



♦ 



THE AUTHOR. 



♦ ♦ 

*> ■ — _ _ — *> 

♦ ♦ 

♦ ••^ 

*j^ Copyrighted 1917 by E. A. Samuelson. ^* 

*4 X 



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Fraternally yours, 




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THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 

.S3 

Origin of Belgian Hares. 



The Belgian Hare is not found in any wild state in any coun- 
iry, but is the result of careful and skillful crossing. Of course, 
the first specimens were somewhat different than the Belgian 
Hares of this day. However, it is said they were first introduced 
into England about 1850 and the breeders of that country brought 
them to a high standard, which in later years were improved on 
by American breeders. There were two distinct breeds — one bred 
for size and meat, the other for beauty and points. 

The first Belgian Hare standard required the animal to be 
somewhat racy in appearance and evenly ticked. The lacing was 
a dense black block on the outside of the ear near the point. 
Later on, the standard was revised, and it confined the lacing 
to near the edge of the ear. The introduction of the Belgian 
Hare into this country, it is said, took place during the period 
between 1888 and 1890, and since thai time the industry has at- 
tained a wonderful popularity. 

UTILITY PURPOSES. 

While there is ever a great demand for fine specimens at good 
prices for breeding purposes, still this is not the only source from 
v/hich the breeder will profit. The excellent quality of the meat, 
the various uses of the pelts, the small quarters necessary and 
their wonderful prolificacy, together with this cleanliness, have 
made this animal in constant demand. 

The industry combines pleasure with profit and while it may 
diminish at times, it will spring up with greater impetus as the 
years roll on. The demand will become greater than the supply, 
and it is not utterly impossible that in a few years there will 
be as much demand for rabbit meat as for chickens. Statistics 
show that chicken has 34 per cent^ bone, while a raabbit fry has 

©CI.A478474 
SEP !7 1jj(7 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



only 14 per cent. They contain 83 per cent of nutrition, while 
pork contains 75 per cent, mutton 68 per cent, beef 55 per cent 
and chicken 50 per cent. Is it any wonder why there should be 
a great demand when these facts are generally known? To com- 
mand the attention of producers, it must be possible to rear them 
in qualities and at a cost to permit a fair profit when sold at a 
price well within the reach of the masses. At the present time 
rabbit meat is being sold at from 25 to 35 cents per pound dressed. 
Belgian Hares, New Zealands and Flemish meets all the require- 
ments of a table delicacy. They are not equaled in tenderness, 
juiciness and delicacy of flavor and are very nutritious and di- 
gestive. The meat is white like the breast of a chicken and can 
be produced with small expense. There is absolutely no waste, 
the bones are small compared to other food commodities and 
lacks the oily substances found in chickens and ducks. 

PRODUCTION. 

Under ordinary circumstances a doe will produce from four 
to six litters a year, varying from five to ten each time. This, 
with the increase of the progeny, which commences at about six 
or seven months, will give from the original pair figures that are 
startling in the extreme. 

The nature of the rabbit to reproduce its species so rapidly 
makes it possible to raise them in great numbers. Their pro- 
lificacy is wonderful. The small space necessary to accommodate 
them and the nature of the food required brings the cost within 
a nominal figure. Conditions in the meat production market are 
continually changing and as the supply of certain products be- 
comes limited the price goes up and up beyond the reach of many. 
Wild game is also becoming less plentiful. Therefore, there is 
no doubt but that the domestic rabbit will supplant meat on our 
table, with its comparatively small cost. Do not forget that the 
introduction of domestic rabbit meat into the homes of the mil- 
lions of meat consumers is the mainstay of the industry. Were 
it not for the value of chicken as a food commodity its industry 
would be but a memory in a few years, and to, this end every true 
fancier should work. When once it is placed on this basis there 
will be a demand that will take hundreds of thousands of rabbits 
to supply. 

The fur side of the industry is another feature that is com- 
manding attention. The pelts can be used for the manufacture 
of muffs, capes, etc., can be used for lining coats, trimming dresses 
J nd in this day and age many have been used for the above pur- 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



poses, as has been shown at various exhibitions throughout the 
country. They can be prepared as other pelts. The most com- 
mon way is to stretch the pelt over a board and rub salt over 
it while fresh and then sprinkle with powdered alum and allow 
it to dry. It is best to scrape away the surplus fat and flesh 
from the hide. When about dry, remove from boards and rub 
with the hands until dry. Place your pelts where there will be 
plentj' of air, but not directly in the rays of the sun. It has 
iieen the practice of many fanciers to send their pelts to some 
fur house to be tanned, at a nominal cost. This process requires 
about six weeks, but they are in excellent condition when re- 
turned. 

THE RABBIT BUSINESS AND ITS OUTLOOK. 

We hear very much about the rabbit "fad" and very many 
who do not know what domesticated rabbit looks like, who could 




EXHIBITION TYPE BELGIAN 



not tell one from a cottontail and who do not know its delicious- 
ness, write articles to prove their ignorance, and our only course 
is to let them talk and write, and the more the better; for the 
more these who fear it write about' it, the more they advertise it 
and make themselves ridiculous. We like the word "industry," 
but we have no use for the word "fad,'' for it gives a false im- 
pression. 

Experience has developed that most people in purchasing rab- 
bits want them as cheap as possible. This is good business judg- 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



ment. one might say, provided they can secure first class stock, 
but in asking for cheap stock breeders usually pick out the ones 
they would prefer to get rid of and are indeed glad to find buy- 
ers. Poor stock is money wasted in the long run, because as a 
rule it is but a short time until the rabbit breeder has developed 
his intellect and wants better stock. It costs very little more 
to procure good hardy stock and it gives better satisfaction. This 
has been illustrated time and time again. Remember that what- 
ever you get at a bargain is something that must be disposed of 
for room for better stock. This rule, however, can not always 
apply, because at times breeders become weighty with stock and 
offer them at special prices, and those who procure good stock 
at bargain prices are the ones that profit by their timely pur- 
chase. If a beginner knows nothing about the breeding of rab- 
bits, it might be wise to procure some hardy and less costly speci- 
mens and from these learn the lessons which will be of immense 
use to him in the future. 

There is no doubt as to the prolificacy of the domesticated 
rabbit, but when a man buys a. pair or a trio and at once estimates 
how many he should have at a given time, he perhaps dooms him- 
self to disappointment, and as a result may give up the industry. 
What is needed is calmer views and more common sense, the lack 
of which has done much harm. 

HOW TO BEGIN. 

The fundamental principles are first, love for little animals; 
second, ambition for success, and third, to show to the world the 
value both as a food commodity and for fancy. 

It is always good advice to beginners to purchase stock from 
n reliable breeder. When choosing your stock, determine in your 
own mind just what sort of stock you want to adapt yourself 
toward raising, whether it be Belgian Hares, New Zealands, Flem- 
ish Giants, or other species. 

In selecting suitable and healthy rabbits of young stock, care 
should be taken to obtain those whose claws are small and not 
beyond the fur of the foot, as this is proof positive that they are 
young. When older animals are desired for breeding purposes, 
this is of little importance. When the claws are long and thick 
the animals are aged; the claws of a rabbit of say four or more 
years are generally curved and sometimes over an inch beyond 
the fur and proportionate in thickness. The teeth of a young rab- 
bit are small as compared with those of the older ones. The eye 
should be full and sparkling and the white portion free from any 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



yellow tinge, as the latter is indicative of ill health, and the body 
must not be swollen, nor must the animal have "pot-belly," which 
is a proof of its having been fed upon too much wet, green food. 
The bowels should be in order, and they are so when the dung 
is in firm round balls. These in a general, sprightly, vivacious 
manner always present when the animal is in good health; and 
if it lacks this, disease, either active or latent, certainly exists. 

A beginner may commence with three does and one buck or 
a trio at least. It is well and important to ascertain that they 
are in no way related. Then again it is very important not to 
breed from stock that is not fully grown, which should be after 
the seventh month. Experience is generally the best teacher, and 
the results of this experience means years of learning. 

Aftr a few months of experience in caring for his start in 
the rabbit business, it would be well to secure better stock, be- 
cause the better stock brings more money in sales and they are 
as easily reared as the common ones, if care be used in their selec- 
tion. In writing to breeders, always specify the kind of stock de- 
sired, whether you wish pedigreed stock of good length and color, 
or whether you desire exhibition stock, registered or not, as may 
be decided upon by purchaser. The price of this stock is higher 
in proportion but worth every cent of it. Reliable dealers can 
always be depended upon. 

HUTCHES. 

There are, of course, various hutches that can be made very 
cheaply. They are of great importance and it is a mistake to sup- 
pose that anything with wire netting around or in front of it 
will do for a rabbit hutch, more especially if it is to be exposed 
to the weather. 

Any building, such as a stable or unoccupied outbuilding that 
is rainproof, with good ventilation over and above the heads of 
the animals, will do well as a rabbitry. Hutches should be made 
in tiers, three or four in number, with the first floor raised at 
least nine inches from the ground. The hutches should be 24 
inches deep, about 20 or 24 inches high and about five or six feet 
long, with floors slightly tilted towards the front to allow of 
drippings, and the upper tiers should extend a couple of inches 
forward so as not to allow the drippings to fall on the hutch 
below. The floors should be made of tongue and groved lumber, 
which is the most serviceable. A good sized nest box should be 
placed in each tier for use of breeding does. 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



OUTSIDE HUTCHES. 

Many of the successful breeders of the day use outside hutches 
entirely, and if these are used care should be used to give them 
a south aspect if possible. A suitable oitdoor hutch is reproduced 




Single Hutch. 



IS 


:^;S 


^&; 




Sl^ 


I 




L#*^ 


m 

i 1 



Hutches Arranged in Tiers. 



below, which has been found very satisfactory. It costs a little 
more to build this style of hutch, but they are easily moved from 
place to place and make very serviceable and satisfactory hutches. 

The rabbitry herewith presented is 5x10 feet and JVz feet higiJ 
at gable point, while under eaves the height is 6^ feet. It con- 
tains 12 hutches in three separate stories, each hutch being 3x5x2 
feet. Hutches are open on one end, covered with one-inch poul- 
try netting. Drop curtain for stormy days. Nest box in back 
part of each hutch. Double doors held in position by screen door 
roil springs. Partitions made of wood. North side same as south 
side; east side same as west side. 




/ DOORS \ I DrOOPS \ 






PIG I. 



Rabbitry 



A DOORS jK ODORS r 

10 FT. 
F 1 Cr 2 
Ground Plan 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



Wherever possible this rabbitry should be placed under trees 
so as to give shade in summer. Have wire-covered ends face east - 
and vvest in order to give each row^ of hutches sun in winter time. ■ J 

First — Make frame in four parts — two parts as in Fig. 3 and f 
two parts as in Fig. 4. 

TO MAKE. 

Parts of frame as in Fig. 3 are made as follows : 

Two outside uprights are 1x6x6^/^ ; middle upright, 1x12x7^. 
Cross pieces are 1x6x10. Two outer upright pieces are nailed so J 
as to protrude J^-inch (or exact thickness of board) on either I 
end of cross-pieces. Gable piece is made by cutting board 1x12x5 ' 
diagonally into two equal parts, as in Fig. 5. 







.—-^ J 








F,C, S 


OPEN WIPE 


2 FT 


,1 II 1 


.... 




a FT 

2 FT 
a FT 




2FT 


1 III 




\ \ 


2 FT- 


J II 1 




_^ 



no-. 3 

(INS.DE view; 



(iNSlOE VrEw) 



OPEM WIRE 

PART 

FIG. 6 



Parts of frame, as in Fig. 4, are made thus: Uprights are 
1x6x6^/^ ; lower cross piecce, 1x6x5 feet 10% inches ; three upper 
cross-pieces 1x4x5 feet 10% inches. 

Next set up parts of frame on cement blocks, nailing corners 
as shown in Fig. 6. 

Now, being sure corners are placed at perfect rectangle, be- 
gin to lay floors. Use ceiling (fir is worked more easily than 
hard pine), putting groved side downward. First, however, put 
a 1x6x6 board through center of frame, running parallel with and 
exactly below gable, nailing it so as to stand on edge, even with 
top of lower cross-pieces of frame parts; this, together with lower 
cross-pieces, to form foundation on which to nail lower floor. 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



Now, using 10-foot ceiling, lay lower floor, nailing strips of ceil- 
ing lengthwise of building. 

Next take a piece of one-inch poultry netting two feet wide 
and a few inches longer than six feet, and nail it to the inside of 
fronts of lower hutches. Do the same on either open front end. 

Then put in partitions for lower set of four hutches. (See 
ground plan. Fig. 2). A handy way of making and putting in 
partitions is shown in Fig. 7. 




Next put in nest boxes for lower set of four hutches. Each 
nest box is made of two boards 1x12x3, which are nailed together 
in the form of a rectangle, a hole having been cut into one end 
tor animals to pass through; and then hinged to back wall of 
each hutch. (See Figs. 8, 9 and 10, and also Fig. 2). 

Fig. 8 shows a nest box ready for use ; Fig. 9. nest box hooked 
out of the way for cleaning or inspection. 

Now lay second floor, put on poultry netting, put in partitions, 
nest boxes; third floor, etc., till all is done. On top of upper par- 
titions another board 1x12x6, and another roof piece made as in 
Fig. 5 are needed. 

Whereupon roof may be nailed and doors hung which finishes 
rabbitry. Doors should be 22 inches wide, which is four inches 
wider than openings, which are 18 inches, so as to lap over on 
outside. They may be made of 12-inch and 10-inch boards fastened 



10 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



together with cleats. A good plan is to fit double door to close 
over each other diagonally. See Fig. 11. 




^ 



Doors are held in position by screen door coil springs, and 
may be hooked, only one hook being necessary for one double 
door. 



:eL Old 



o 

c 

X2 



A r 




For the benefit of those who desire a smaller rabbitry. Figs. 
12 and 13 show one-half as large, with single row of hutches, 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 11 



made practically the same as one with double rows. Where this 
single kind is used, open wire front should face south. 

The big breeder will do well to use double kind, placing a 
number of them in a series under one roof, and leaving aisles be- 
tween them, ends of roof projecting to give attendant shelter in 
bad weatlier. See Fig. 14. Also where single rows of hutches 
(Fig. 12) are used, they may be placed in series under one roof, 
ends of roof projecting as in Fig. 14. Aisles in this cut are 2'Vz 
feet wide. Ends of roof also extend 2'^/^ feet. 




FEEDING. 

The proper feeding of rabits, while not a difficult thing to 
learn, is of much greater importance than is generally under- 
stood. While it will not create a good specimen out of a poor 
one, it will make a good one better and cause even a poor qual- 
ity of hare to look its best. 

Feeding for the show room and feeding for market are two 
very different things. The former method is followed with a 
vievv of producing hardness of flesh, glossiness of fur, an active, 
alert disposition and a fineness and slenderness of body which 
shows little or no stomach, especially in the Belgian Hare. The 
latter method is intended to produce a heavy animal, possessing 
as great an amount of meat to each carcass as possible. 

In feeding for the show room the stock should be fed twice 
daily, with the exception of brood does and youngsters under three 
months of age. These should either be fed three times each day 



12 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 

or fed twice daily, giving enough food to last from one meal un- 
til the next. With these exceptions, the hares should be fed only 
what they will eat up clean in one hour. This is a good rule, but 
it has many exceptions. Some hares can consume twice as much 
feed as others and still remain in good, hard condition. The only 
accurate way is to become acquainted with the ne-^ds of each in- 
dividual specimen and feed accordingly. This is by no means so 




BliLGIAN DOE— A WINNER. 



difficult a task as one would imagine. Feeding twice each day 
and noting the condition of each hare as it is fed, one quickly 
becomes expert at estimating the amount of feed required by each. 

Should you notice that a specimen is getting overfat and show- 
ing a tendency to "pot-belly," cut down on its feed, particularly 
on hay and green food. On the other hand, should it be evident 
that the rabbit was too thin and gaunt, showing a hollowness in 
the flank or the backbone being visible, increase the amount of 
feed given. It would be a long list that w^ould include the dif- 
ferent foods that domesticated rabbits will eat and that will agree 
with it. Whole or rolled oats and barley, wheat, alfalfa or clover 
hay, bread, milk, carrots, parsnips, cabbage and green grass. Green 
food should be fed sparingly and carefully and fresh, cool water 
should be standing before them at all times. The great major- 
ity of breeders use alfalfa or clover hay and oats or barley and 
green foods are given as a variety. 

While feeding proper foods in proper quantities will greatly 
aid in producing firm flesh and a bright, lustrous fur, it must be 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 13 




14 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



aided by exercise and daily grooming of the specimens when fit- 
ting for the show room. In grooming rabbits begin with a stiff 
brush, following with the hands slightly moistened and finish with 
chamois skin. It has been stated that £ good plan just before 
the specimen goes to the judge, is to moisten the hands with one 
drop of sweet oil and groom carefully. 

When feeding for market the object is to produce as great 
an amount of flesh as possible and as quickly as possible. To 
do this it is necessary that the youngsters grow rapidly from the 
start. 

Milk is known as a rapid growth producer, but to some it 
is not available, and if used to any extent would lessen the profit 
considerably. Oats produce a fine quality of flesh, but it is not 
a real good food to grow flesh rapidly. Ground barley, or whole 
barley is excellent, as has been found from experience. Alfalfa 
or hay should stand before the. stock, at all times. It may be 
well to bear in mind that the medium weight rabbit, like the me- 
dium weight chicken, sells much quicker on the market than does 
the real heavy specimen, although both are excellent. Combine 
intelligent care with the firm determination to excel and your 
stock will do well and be a credit to you and a money maker. 
Above all, don't forget fresh water two or three times daily. 

FEEDING GREEN FOODS. 

The diversity of opinion that exists among fanciers as to the 
feeding and treatment of their hares and rabbits is very pro- 
nounced. Successful breeders and exhibitors of all kinds of stock 
often have an entirely different method of management, yet the 
animals will appear in the best possible condition, though the 
fancier will declare that the way in which another treats his stock 
is enough to kill them. One of the subjects on which some fan- 
ciers are greatly at variance is that of green food. Some con- 
sider that green food should be fed sparingly, while others are 
equally successful in giving his rabbits green food to their hearts' 
content. There is little doubt that bad effects result from a too 
liberal supply of green food, especially to youngsters, and a be- 
ginner should beware of too liberal a supply of green food. 

BREEDING. 

Give your does plenty of time to grow. If, by seven months, 
they are undersized and not fully matured, wait until they are 
eight months before breeding. The youngsters will be more sat- 
isfactory in every way if this is done. Some does will not breed 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 15 



at once, and many times it has been necessary to take the doe 
to the buck's hutch several times before this is accomplished. 
When a doe will not breed of her own accord the only thing to 
do is to wait until she will. Does have been known to refuse 
to breed for two or three weeks, although given a chance every 
day during this time. 

After the doe is bred, place her carefully in the hutch where 
she is to rear her young, which usually arrive almost to the very 




GOOD TYPE OF BELGIAN, 
hour in thirty days from time of breeding. If she is a well bred 
animal it will be a good plan to have a nurse doe bred at the 



16 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



same time, so if the pedigreed doe has more than she can take 
care of properly, the offspring of the nurse doe may be disposed 
of and the litter of well bred ones divided. Have a good roomy, 
dark nest box, but it must have some ventilation. There are two 
common causes of blindness among the young — not having a dark 
nestbox and the ammonia arising from filth in the hutch. Per- 
fect cleanliness pays. 

Do not have the doe worried, disturbed nor handled, unless 
absolutely necessary. Thoughtlessness or carelessness in this par- 
ticular may mean the loss of a litter. If necessary to remove her 
from the hutch, gently take hold of the skin on the back of the 
neck with one hand, resting haunches on the other hand. Never 
handle them by the ears. Do not allow any strangers near her 
hutch when time for the young arrive, nor for a few days after. 
It might or might not make a difference with her. You can not 
tell until it is too late. 

Does will make their nests from a week to an hour in advance 

of the time of kindling. You will know when they wish to build 
their nests, for they pick up hay in their mouths and carry it into 
the nest box. See that she has plenty of hay with which to work, 
but not too much, for she may stuff the nest box so full there 
will be no room for easy access. 

Some inexperienced breeders have contended that does may 
be bred every nine or ten weeks and thus keep up a string of 
continual kindling, but experience has taught a bitter lesson in 
this regard. This is going too far, and it is going against nature. 
Youngsters should not be weaned until they are at least eight or 
ten weeks old and then the doe should have sufficient rest, in 
order to produce suitable and healthy offspring. Never try to 
see how many you can raise in a given time, but how good a 
ciuality you can produce by good care and judicious breeding. 

CARE, EXERCISE, ETC. 

While it would seem that no especial care would be necessary 
in keeping Belgians, this is a sad mistake. Care should be taken 
to see that their hutches are cleaned as often as possible, never 
letting them go over a week at the longest. Give your rabbits 
the same care that yo would your own children in order to keep 
them clean, healthy and vigorous. 

If it is possible, it is expedient to give the young rabbits plenty 
of exercise. A good sized run is advisable for this. Exercise 
with rabbits, the same as with persons, is conducive to good 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 17 



health and their growth is more pronounced. Of course, if feed- 
ing for market and it is desired to reach a greater weight in the 
least time, then a great deal of exercise will not be to your ad- 
vantage. The older rabbits should have some exercise, as con- 
tinued confinement in a small space has a tendency to lessen their 
breeding qualities. It makes them better breeders, producing more 
healthy stock. Rabbits propagate rapidly if given exercise and 
attention, and a rabbit breeder should take as much interest in 
his stock as he would his own child. As Elbert Hubbard is quoted 
as saying: "Carefulness is better than carelessness, results brings 
proof." 

If you do your duty in supplying a doe her needs and she is 
healthy, you will never have any trouble in this direction. Some- 
times a doe will disown her litter, but you will most always find 
that she is not in good health or you did not take some necessary 
precaution during this period to insure her perfect health. Some 
people have had considerable trouble with does eating their young. 
Let me say the cause of this is most generally because she is 
feverish, as is the case with does having their first litter. For 
young does about to litter for the first time, it is a safe plan to 
place a small piece of salt pork in her hutch about the day she is 
due to kindle. Then keep a sharp lookout, and if her tendency 
is to eat the young, increase the supply of salt pork, until her 
feverish condition has left, and then trouble will end. 

Feed her regularly, as any irregularity in feeding may cause 
the flow of milk to stop and sickness will be the result of both 
mother and litter. Always have plenty of food before her, so 
she may eat any time, giving milk producing foods if possible, 
such as carrot, peas (soaked for some time) oats, bran, wheat or 
barley, corn bread and bread dried. Milk is good for them if 
possible, but they will raise just as good litters without it. If 
milk is given, be sure there is none left to sour. The more 
nourishment is given the mother doe, the stronger and larger 
stock will be the result. 

About the second or third day examine her nest, giving the 
doe some little dainty to take up her attention, but not forgetting 
to place a board at the entrance to the nest, or she may make 
a dash at you, stepping on the little ones. If any dead ones are 
noticeable, remove them at once. If she has a large litter, use a 
nurse doe if possible, dividing as equally as possible. It is much 
preferable for a doe to bring up three or four, as at one month 
of age they are as large as two and a half month youngsters when 
there are seven and eight in a litter. Do not remove the fur 



18 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



from the little ones till their own coat is grown, and this is espe- 
cially necessary in cold weather. On the fourteenth day clean 
out the nest box and put in new hay, and it is better now to 
clean it every week. The end of the nest box may be left open 
as there is no danger from the light at this age. As soon as the 
youngsters tumble out of the nest box they will begin to eat 
whatever is placed in the hutch. Be very careful about feeding 
green food and would advise not to feed any until the young- 
sters are three months of age, and sparingly then. 

It is easier to prevent "slobbers" than to cure it, and when 
the youngsters get it, you will know it by the water discharge 
from the corners of their mouths. Do not waste 'any time, but 
begin to doctor at the first symptoms, instructions for which will 
be found under diseases and remedies. 

It is very unwise to breed a doe when nursing young. Let 
her nurse them at least eight weeks, give her a week's rest, two 
weeks is better, and you will then do justice to both mother 
and litter. Too many litters a year will deteriorate your stock. 
Don't overlook this pointer. Does live to be eight years old and 
older, and if well taken care of can be bred profitably for about 
five years. It pays to take care of a good doe. The hardest time 
for bringing youngsters through is from weaning time till they 
are about four months of age. If kept with the mother till the 
third month you will have little or no trouble. Give them run- 
ways as above outlined. Separate the sexes at three months, and 
while on this subject will say that the best way to tell, although 
at times some breeders have made a mistake, is to notice the 
penus of the male and female, the former being round and the 
latter oval shaped when pressed out. 

Now a few lines about the hay to feed. If possible feed the 
third crop of alfalfa and the first crop of clover hay. Do not use 
a bale weighing over sixty pounds or so. for it is usually packed 
very close and is apt to get moldy and dusty, and then again 
heavy bales denotes large stemmed alfalfa which should be avoid- 
ed. Beware of poor hay, as that will cause a loss in your young- 
sters as bad as green food would. Feed judiciously and remem- 
ber this — that there is as much stock lost by feeding too much 
than not enough. Keep your hares a little hungry and this is 
much better advice than stuffing them full day after day. It would 
be a safe plan to feed them morning and evening just as much 
as they can eat up clean in an hour's time. Keep your hutches 
sanitary and ventilated, handle yo'tir stock often in order to get 
them tamed and you will combine pleasure with profit. 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 19 



A WORD ABOUT THE UTILITY SIDE OF RABBITS. 

The Belgian Hare, New Zealand and Flemish are beginning to 
assume huge proportions as a food commodit}^ There are hun- 
dreds of families raising these animals to supply their own table. 
As a meat proposition they are hard to equal, delicious and tender 
and containing a greater per cent of nutrition than any other 
meat. The meat is white like the breast of a chicken and there 
is as fine a texture of meat as can be found on any meat pro- 
ducing animal. In many of the larger states today, California, 
for instance, there is as large a demand for Belgians for the 
table as for chickens. And why? Because they have created a 
demand and have introduced it into homes and the best hotels. 
There's a reason. Don't be discouraged; stick with the ship; 
enter into this industry like you would enter into a business. 
When reverses come, plan your success with set teeth and smiling 
countenances. It's bound to come. It's a table delicacy and when 
once introduced for a dinner, there is bound to be some reaction 
and the result will be that chickens will be second choice. Re- 
member that dollars grow from dollars, the same as plants grow 
from seeds. It is not absolutely necessary to have the finest stock 
m the land, but it is necessary to have good healthy stock, the 
kind that fattens quickly when properly cared for. When once 
introduced in new localities the main trouble will be supplying 
the demand, and you will find this to be especially true when 
once inaugurated. 

It is claimed that for digestibility and nutritive value there 
is no meat comparable with that of the domesticated rabbit, and 
that compared with other meats, not half of the meat side of the 
industry has been told, nor can it ever be told. Boost it as a 
table commodity and you'll not be surprised at the returns that 
come in. 

In the fall of 1915 the writer introduced Belgian Hares dressed 
into two of Kansas City's largest hotels, selling them in lots of 
40 pounds twice a week for 25 cents a pound. The hotels used a 
special slip on their menu card, and I give below a sample for 
those that might want an idea : 

SPECIAL TODAY. 
Young Grain Fed Belgian Frys. 

NOTE — Belgian frys are the most delicious flavored meat to 
be had as a food commodity, are highly nutritious, containing 83 



20 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



per cent of digestible nutriment, with meat as white as the breast 
of a chicken — an appetizing morsel. 

The result was that I could not supply the demand, even 
though I purchased from some large breeders in Kansas and else- 
where, and I had to cancel my contract early in February of 
the following year. This is merely related to give some enter- 
prising breeder an insight of the possibilities. Don't overlook the 
utility side; it will mean increased sales to you breeders. Boost 
it at every turn of the road and you will be rewarded by the as- 
tonishing increase in sales of both young and breeding stock. 

PEDIGREES AND REGISTRATION. 

The subject of lineage is becoming an important factor in 
the selection of breeding stock today. A fine specimen from prize 
winning parents will be much more likely to breed winners than 
a specimen, although a fine one itself, by the result of chance, 
coming from parents who are unknown. The breeder whose hon- 
esty is unimpeachable and whose stock is known to be reliable 
and correctly pedigreed, is the one who will command his price 
and will have a ready sale for all his stock. 

Registered stock stands for a guarantee of quality; the num- 
ber of the hare is tatooed in its ear. and the number is entered 
into the books of the National Pet Stock Association. All hares 
are registered by licensed judges of the National Pet Stock Asso- 
ciation, and only the finest hares in the different species are eligi- 
ble for registration, the cost of which is $1 per head. For further 
information on registrations or becoming a member of the Na- 
tional Association, address C. S. Gibson, secretary, 1045 West War- 
ren Avenue, Detroit, Mich. 



EAR TAGS. 

An important matter in connection with the keeping of cor- 
rect records of stock is ear marks, for no matter how good a 
breeder's intentions are, he can not keep a perfect systern with 
out errors unless proper care is taken. Tags that are easily ad- 
justed and comfortable to the wearer art the ones that will last 
the life of the hare and are safeguards that will in some instances 
l)rotect the breeder's reputation and insure the identity of the 
hare that may perhaps pass through several hands. 

There are several systems in vogue at this time, and perhaps 
the most prominent one is the use of ear markers, using India 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 21 



or indellible ink and punching the number in the ears by use of 
a needle marker. 

Where a large number of hares are kept, all hutches should 
be numbered and a card attached to each hutch giving the name 
of the animal therein, together with its distinguishing mark, ear 
lag, etc. The card for the breeding doe should, in addition, give 
date when bred and to what buck. These are known as record 
cards. 

Purchasers of bred does and those shipping does to be bred, 
should always insist on receiving a certificate of breeding, giving 
the name of the buck, date of service and signature of owner of 
buck, certifying to the service. 



NEW ZEALAND RED RABBITS. 

Courtesy of C. B. Gihiiorc. 

The New Zealand Reds are. strictly speaking, business rabbits 
for general utility purposes. They do not belong to the orna- 
mental classes, yet they are among the most beautiful of breeds. 
Their bright reddish buff coloring, their big hazel eyes and hand- 
some type makes them a much admired rabbit. 

The New Zealand is practically a new rabbit in the American 
fancy. At the present time through the efforts of the New Zeal- 
and Red Club they are one of t.he most popular rabbits in the 
country. 

As an exhibition animal thej^ are unequaled. They are by no 
means an easy breed from which to produce 90 per cent animals, 
which makes them all the more favored as an exhibition rabbit, 
and the prices obtained for good exhibition animals makes them 
very profitable. 

As a market rabbit, they are par excellence. Practically all 
the large rabbit breeders around Los Angeles, which has one of 
the best rabbit markets in America, breed New Zealands, because 
they mature ra.p'\<\\y, making fine fryers at from seven to ten 
weeks. They are medium boned, making them fine for fryers, 
tor, taking a larger rabbit when the young begin to grow, they 
must grow a big frame, consequently when dressed at eight weeks 
you have much bone. 

They breed very true to color. Pure bred New Zealands never 
throw off colored animals. They are of a quiet nature, conse- 
quently take on flesh very rapidly, and the flesh is of fine grained 



22 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



texture and very juicy. The fur of the New Zealand is coming 
in demand, being used for imitation Red Fox. 

The first or original New Zealands were a much lighter color 
than are the ones of today; in fact, there is almost four shades 
between the ones of four years ago and the ones of today. The 
first New Zealands of record in this country were imported into 
San Francisco in 1906, and the credit for bringing the New Zealand 
Reds into prominence and popularity belongs to the National New 
Zealand Red Club of which C. P. Gilmore, Santa Barbara, Cal., 
is secretary. 

COLOR. 

This breed is said by all who see them to be the most beauti- 
ful domesticated rabbit known. They are a beautiful reddish, buff 
color, with a creamish underbody on good specimens. On the 




A NEW Zii.VI.AMJ RKl). 



high class specimens the color is predominant. The ears are 5V2 
to 6 inches in length, large hazel eyes, with pure white circle 
one-quarter of an inch in width. The head is medium size and 
shapely, free from white cheeks, a reddish buff throughout, but 
lighter under the jaws. Have a large racy appearance, free from 
pot-belly, firm in flesh and close coated. 

STANDARD WEIGHT. 

Three pounds at 2 months; 4^/^ pounds at 3 months; 6 pounds 
at 5 months; 8 pounds at 8 months; does, 10 pounds at 12 months; 
bucks 9 pounds at 12 months. 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 23 




24 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



FLEMISH GIANTS. 

The Flemish Giant, it is stated, is the result of crossing of 
several breeds. Unfortunately much progress has been made in 
the bringing of the present state of perfection of the Flemish 
Giant without proper records having been kept, so that it leaves 
a wide possibility for conjectures. 

The Flemish Giant is a notable example of what can be accom- 
plished by fanciers and breeders. It is famous for its weight and 
large and imposing appearance. It is a hardy animal and this is 
an important point to consider when laying in a variety of rab- 




A BLACK FLEMISH GIANT. 

bits. If heavy weight carcasses are demanded in your market, the 
Flemish Giant will meet every demand. 

However, it has been found that they will not always breed 
true to color. Dark gray parents often produce jet black young, 
while jet black parents often prgduce dark gray young, and so 
forth. 

The commercial value of the Flemish Giant has begun to place 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 25 



them amongst the leaders, and judging from the inquiries for these 
giants they rightfully deserve this honor. The fur is also of com- 
mercial value, because the supply of beaver, real seal, sable and 
silver foxes are rapidly becoming extinct, and to satisfy the in- 
creasing demand the furriers look for substitutes and the most 
useful has been the rabbit skin. The steel gray, light gray, black 
and white Flemish Giants are all on a par as to the fur. It is 
thick and heavy and prices vary according to size and thickness 
of fur. 

The White Flemish, while being from the Flemish famil^^ are 
more commonly called White Giants, as well as the sold blacks. 
Separate classifications and standards are now being adopted by 
ihe National Pet Stock Association and in future these Giants will 
be in a class all by themselves. 

Flemish breeders claim it is the most profitable breed to han- 
dle, as the youngsters often scale six pounds at three months, and 
the mothers are excellent milkers and take exceptional care of 
their litters. 

They are the Hereford of the hare family. They are large 
and imposing in looks and size, with a large well shaped head and 
firml)^ set on shoulders, ears very erect, quite thick, and dark 
eyes. The breast is very massive, forelegs well boned and straight. 
Back is very broad and long Does have a well developed dewlap, 
good sized and well carried. In condition they should be well 
coated and flesh should be firm. 

The flesh is equal to the Belgian or New Zealand as a food 
commodity and they require the same attention as other hares, 
only being larger, naturally consumes more food. They breed as 
often, have as large litters, are equally as hardy and in no way 
lacking the good qualities of the other breeds, while in the num- 
ber of pounds of meat produced in a given time they excel. 

The Mastodonic Giant, a breed recently put in prominence by 
a well known Pacific Coast breeder, is another type of the Flem- 
ish family, showing what can be done toward breeding for size. 
Its color is of a sandy color, nearly resembling a Belgian hare, 
but attaining size up to 18 and 20 pounds. A great future is pre- 
dicted for this type of animal. 

In making selection for foundation stock, chose only the long- 
est, broadest and largest boned does, even if color is rather poor, 
for color without size is a poor combination. In bucks, be more 
particular as to color and just as particular about size as in the 
does, seeing to it that they are in good hcj^lth, not too fat nor 



26 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



moulting. Of course, the best buck obtainable is none too good 
if you desire well colored, good sized litters. Take extra good 
care of the does after mating, and give th^m all they can eat and 
drink daily. Two or three days before littering reduce the grain 
ration about one-third, but give plenty of alfalfa, hay and water. 

After the arrival of the youngsters give no grain for about 
thirty-six hours, but add eight drops of aconite to a pint of drink- 
ing water to allay fever and for tonic. Begin grain ration by giv- 




EXTRA FINE STEKL iAih'A Fl.KAllSH. 

mg few oats with wheat bran, gradually increasing amount given 
until young are ten or twelve days old, and from this time on to 
maturity crowd them every minute, being very careful not to over- 
do it, for great and lasting harm may be done in this way. Bread 
and milk is exceptionally fine after young are about two weeks 
old. Leave doe with the litter until she refuses to nurse them, 
even if it is four months — the longer the better. 

In breeding for size it is important that you do not allow the 
doe to care for more than three or four young, providing a nurse 
doe for the balance. 

Many breeders advocate breeding the young does in a litter 
when eight months of age, back to the sire if color is to be more 
predominant, which is known as line breeding. 



SOME VALUABLE DATA ON FLEMISH. 

Breeders of Flemish Giants appear to be somewhat backward 
at giving advice. In giving my views on different points I may 
clash with the opinions of other breeders, but I hope that what 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 27 



I will say will be taken in the same spirit in which it is given. 

My first view is the importance of good does. As the name 
of the rabbit implies, it must be big. Size is one of, if not the, 
chief consideration. Therefore it should be given a prominent 
place in all breeding operations. And the best way to get size 
is to breed only from big rabbits. Have both the buck and doe 
as big as possible. Avoid the small, flashy rabbits, as they are 
of no use at all in the breeding pen. I admit it is not always 
true that the biggest bucks sire the biggest youngsters, but the 
very small ones never will breed big ones. In bucks it is wisest 
to use standard weighted ones, say 12 to 14 pounds. There are 
times, however, when it is advisable to use bucks which are a lit- 
tle below standard weight, but in such cases make sure that the 
bucks were bred from big parents, and only use him for big does. 
The reason for advocating, and using, large bucks in the breeding 
hutch, is because we must have length of body in our Giants. If 
we have not a long roomy frame, it is impossible to get the de- 
sired size, and it is only by using big bucks that we can produce 
those roomy frames. 

It must not be thought that if a large buck is used nothing 
else matters. The doe plays an equally prominent part in decid- 
ing the quality of the youngsters; therefore, get as good a doe as 
you can afford. Size you must have in the doe, and in seeking 
after size you can afford to allow a little latitude in the matter 
of color. Get the biggest and best shaped doe you can, and if she 
IS not so good in color as you would like, make certain that she 
i? bred from parents of good color. The old adage that "blood 
will tell," is true in breeding Flemish as it is in any other branch 
of the live stock fancy. 

The question of color is largely decided by the buck, at least 
such is the contention. This being the case, secure as good colored 
buck as possible. Health is an important point and bucks which 
show any signs of ill health should be avoided. Many fanciers 
favor mating a dark buck to a doe of medium shade, but I believe 
it is good policy to breed from the darkest pair you can get, as 
in this way you usually get one dark youngster in a litter, the 
remainder being medium steels. 

If you have a long, lean young buck in your rabbitry, hang onto 
him. Given proper care and attention, he will widen out with 
age and, providing the color is right, come out good. The art 
of breeding Flemish is largely in being able to grow them and 
get the most out of them. 



28 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



When the youngsters are ready for weaning take youngsters 
away, leaving her with the young buck which you hope to grow 
into quality. Place mother and son away from other occupants 
of the rabbitry, so that they are not disturbed. Leave them to- 
gether for a few weeks until the young buck has grown quite ac- 
customed to his new surroundings, then take the mother away. 

Naturally, feeding is the all-important part. Give him at a 
time as much hay, alfalfa or grain as he can eat up clean in a 
day. If he has too much food he will spend his time in raking 
it up into a heap, whereas, he should be lying down and growing, 
h'eed him liberally on the best of food, but see that he always 
has a clean trough or hutch in the morning. When cleaning out 
the hutch, place him in a box kept solely for that purpose, so as 
to avoid frightening him. Many breeders when buying a buck to 
place at the head of their stud, take it home, place it among the 
other stock and treat it in a haphazard manner. The result is 
that the rabbit never justifies expectations and the seller is very 
often blamed. Keep the young bucks out of sight of the does and 
see that the smell of the does is not carried to him; otherwise 
progress is arrested. 



GERMAN CHECKERED GIANTS. 

This beautiful marked animal is not an old timer in this coun- 
try, but originated from Germany, and some few fanciers have 
become deeply interested in this breed. As a fur producing ani- 
mal, this rabbit no doubt will be in wide demand. They are marked 
somewhat like an English rabbit, but much larger in size, some 
of them weighing in the neighborhood of 15 and 16 pounds. They 
have various colors, black and white, blue and white and tortoise 
and white. 

Care should be used in breeding these animals and as with 
Flemish, the buck should have better markings than the does. The 
standard for German Checkered Giants will be found in this book. 



PREPARING FOR EXHIBITION. 

The breeder who expects to win on a specimen picked up 
amongst his stock without any previous preparation, will be sadly 
fooled. Winning Belgians are prepared for exhibition and fed for 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 29 



shape from the time they are born, which is the proper time to 
begin this training. 

Give the doe a long run with a nest box in one end, and as 
soon as the young ones are running about, place across the cen- 
ter a three or four-inch board for a hurdle. As they get older, 
add another three or four-inch board, then another, until the hur- 
dle is about twelve inches high. This will give them sufficient 
room to run and leap, which will tend to avoid the large stomachs 
which are so detestable. 

It is only by plenty of exercise that the muscles can be prop- 
erly developed and a long, racy appearance acquired. E.xercise 
also prevents, to a large degree, the formation of dewlap, crooked 
legs and lopped ears, by hardening the muscles. No animal raised 
in cramped quarters will have any chance in the show room. 

But exercise is not all; there must be a proper foundation 
to work on. You can't make a short, chunky rabbit into a prize 
winner by giving it a thousand runs, any more than you can make 
a cur a prize winner amongst thoroughbred dogs. Look to your 
breeders in the first place and select only the lengthy does, fined 
boned and showing quality in every line. Mated to racy, rich col- 
ored bucks, the youngsters will be good material to work on for 
the show room. 

While the youngsters are still in the nest box, feed the doe 
only such foods as produce a steady and healthy growth. No fixed 
rule can be applied in this case, as what might be good for one 
may not do for the other. Attention must necessarily be paid 
to their development. If they grow fast they may become coarse 
in bone and limb, and might as well be laid aside as far as the 
show room is concerned, unless shown in the heavy weight or 
utility classes. Notice the young carefully and if quick growth 
is apparent reduce the quantity of nourishing foods, such as grains 
and mashes, and in place of them give hay or the stemmy parts 
of alfalfa. On the other hand, if they appear to be thin and weak, 
feed the mother doe with warm milk and bread at night if possi- 
ble, or a mash of middlings, containing a little linseed meal every 
morning. Also give plenty of carrots and you will soon increase 
her supply of milk and the youngsters will show an improvement. 

When the litter is weaned select the most promising ones and 
give these your attention. Remember that feeding has as much 
to do with preparing an animal for exhibition as any other one 
thing. If you feed heavily you will secure a pot-bellied appear- 
ance on the animal, and to rectify this n;istake, will perhaps take 



30 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBEf GUIDE 



away all ambition to produce a classy animal. Be careful and 
do not feed too much; feed sufficient nourishing food, some little 
green stuff, not much, but enough so they will eat it up clean in 
an hour. Do this morning and evening and don't forget the hur- 
dles. 

Condition is another point, in fact, the main one in exhibition 
animals. Rough coats will not win. Judges have thrown out some 
excellent animals which were out of condition, and it is a shame 
that this condition would exist, when breeders have the type and 
color. Never keep exhibition Belgians on the dusty ground, as 
it will get in their fur and absorb whatever oil there is, making 
their coat dead and faded. 

In selecting show animals be sure they are healthy and fret 
from disease, as these are barred, and no amount of care ' given 
a diseased animal will prove of advantage, if it still shows signs 
when in the show room. Specimens should be groomed regularly 
every day. Go over them carefully with a brush, finishing with your 
hand or chamois. This imparts a glow to their fur. Be sure and 
handle your stock frequently, so that they will be accustomed 
to it and not struggle and scratch when touched. Be sure they 
are not moulting. 

In New Zealands and Flemish, size of course is a point of ad- 
vantage, but these also must be conditioned. They should not 
have a pot-bellied appearance and should be free from moult. 

Summing it up, the fancier that wins must study his animals, 
work with them and give them his attention if he desires this am- 
bition. 



CRATING AND SHIPPING. 

The crating of hares is a vital matter to both breeder and 
purchaser. Certainly a purchaser don't want to pay express charges 
on a heavy box just to receive his animal. Make your crate as 
light as possible, consistent with safety and protection. 

Boxes obtained from any merchant make excellent shipping 
crates and the sides should be sawed off to a slanting position, 
so as to prevent smothering in case other things are piled over 
them. Slats covering this one side gives sufficient air and light. 
If convenient, wire can be used to cover the opening. 

There are many complaints received regarding the receipt of 
hares in bad condition, little or no food in their boxes and the 
lack of water. Small cans should be placed on one side of the 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 31 




32 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



box, nailed. If carrots are handy, these can be substituted for 
water, providing the shipment is not at a distance. Another small 
box or can should be provided for some oats, and a liberal sup- 
ply of alfalfa placed in the box. 

The crate need not be much larger than the animal. When 
several animals are shipped, a crate sufficient for them is con- 
venient for handling, providing there is sufficient room. They 
should be sub-divided, especially for matured specimens, and it 
is preferred to have only one hare in a division. If two or more 
crates are shipped to any one person, be sure and have them 
handled as a lot shipment, and thus save consignee express charges. 
If this is overlooked, ten chances to one the consignee will be re- 
quired to pay almost double. 



CAPONIZING. 

Caponizing the young male rabbits at ten or twelve weeks 
of age, or as soon as the testicles are developed, has a tendency 
to produce heavier animals. They take on flesh very rapidly and 
grow to a large size. Large numbers can be kept in one run with- 
out fear of fighting if this is done. 

Have an assistant to help you with this work. Take the hare 
in your lap, turning its back towards your assistant, and holding 
one front and one hind foot in each hand, spreading them apart 
and exposing the parts to be removed. The operator should of 
course be provided with a sharp knife and after stretching the 
skin over the testicle with forefinger and thumb, cut open the 
scrotum with one slice. It is necessary to cut deep enough to 
make a good sized opening. With the left hand take the testicle 
from the scrotum, drawing it out about two inches, then with a 
knife remove or separate the artery and the spermatic cord, cut- 
ting upward and leaving a little pea-shaped bulb on the end of the 
cord, cutting between this bulb and the testicles proper, allowing 
the cord to drop and return to the scrotum. About two inches 
from the testicle, commence to scrape on the sides of the artery 
downwards with the edge of the knife, making a light and slow 
drawing stroke with the edge of the knife, touching the artery a 
little lower or nearer to the scrotum with each stroke. Perhaps 
a dozen of these little fine cuts are necessary to wear down be- 
fore severing the artery, which should be done well down close 
to the scrotum. This will avoid much blood being lost, while if 
the artery was cut square off, might result in the loss of the hare 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 33 



by its bleeding to death. It is preferred that the testicle on the 
left side should be removed first. Pine tar may be applied to the 
wound in the summer to keep the flies from bothering it. iNever 
caponize any animal that is not in healthy condition. 

The percentage of loss by caponizing is not great and if the 
operation is performed properly, fully 95 per cent of them will 
be apparently over the operation in four or five days, the only no- 
ticeable difference being they are more quiet and not disposed 
to fight each other. 

It is not practicable to misex a doe, as it requires a more deli- 
cate operation and conditions, are such that no average person 
would understand such an operation unless he were versed in sur- 
gery Besides this, thev are of greater value for breeders. 



RABBIT PELTS. 

Inasmuch as the fur-producing animals arc fast disappearing 
and it has been found necessary to breed them in captivity, we 
must necessarily have to look forward to a substitute. Thousands 
of tons of domestic rabbit pelts have annually been imported from 
foreign countries, and why this condition exists, with the numer- 
ous pelts available in this country, is hard to understand, unless 
it is caused from the fact that there is not sufficient pelts to sup- 
ply" the demand. England. France, Germany and other foreign 
countries raise rabbits by the thousands for food purposes and 
naturally an outlet for the pelts is the outcome. 

There are in this country today countless women wearing furs 
made from domesticated rabbits, such as the Belgian. New Zealand. 
Flemish Giants and Himalayan and other varieties. Even the skin 
of the white pink-eved rabbits are used extensively by furriers and 
milliners. For trimming a dress, collar or making gloves or for 
lining coats, they have no equal. Many pelts are being tanned by 
local tanners, prices ranging from 25 cents to $1. according to the 
size and condtion. Below is a very good formula which may be 
applied to tanning: . . 

Take the skin off whole by cutting from hock joint across 
vent to hock joint on oppsite side, and draw the pelt off over the 
head and cut off at a point back of ears, or if ears are to be left 
intact, let the cutting be done on a line extending around to point 
of no e. Cut off the useless parts and soften the skins by soaking 
m "arm water. Take away the fatty part from the inside, then 



34 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



soak the skins, in tepid water two hours. Mix equal parts of borax, 
saltpeter and Glauber salts (sulphate of soda) about one-third to 
an ounce of each to each skin, with water to make a thin paste. 
Spread with a brush over the inside of the skin, applying more 
on the thicker parts than on the thinner. Double the skins to- 
gether, flesh side inward, and place in a cool place. After stand- 
ing twenty-four hours wash the skin clear and apply the following 
mixture in the same way as before: One ounce sal soda, one-third 
ounce borax, two ounces hard white soap, melted slowly together 
without coming to boil. Fold together again and put in warm 
place twenty-four hours. After this dissolve three ounces alum, 
seven ounces salt and 1^/i ounces saleratus in sufficient hot rain 
water to saturate the skin. When cool enough not to scald hands 
soak the skin in it for twelve hours; wring out and hang up to dry. 
When dry repeat the soaking and drying two or three times till 
the skin is sufficiently soft. Last, smooth the inside with fine 
sandpaper and pumice stone. 

You will find bj^ visiting pet stock shows, which are held 
annually all over the country, thousands of women (wives of fan- 
ciers) wearing domesticated fuf-s made from rabbit skins, and there 
is no doubt that this fur will be in demand with the apparent 
scarcity of imported skins caused by the European war. 



STANDARDS FOR JUDGING BELGIANS, FLEMISH, 

NEW ZEALANDS AND GERMAN 

CHECKERED GIANTS. 

The standards printed in this book are the official markings 
and points adopted by the National Pet Stock Association of Ameri- 
ca. They are here arranged for the convenience of both profes- 
sional and amateur breeders. 

Disqualifications. 

One or both cars lopped more than half way in any variety 
except lop ears ; wry tail, a screw tail, with a deformed bone, that 
may be a complete turn or part. The bone may also be firmly 
set to one side. A tail carried to one side at times, not set solid, 
is not a disqualification, but should be cut. Bowed legs, knock 
knees, legs or feet crooked or deformed in any way. Juniors over 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 35 



six months old, off colored eyes or not matching body color speci- 
fied. Foreign colored patches of hair appearing in certain places, 
where color is specified. A patch of hair should consist of enough 
hairs to make a distinct spot. Failure of important color markings 
specified in certain breeds. Plucking hair, cutting tails, dyeing or 
coloring hair, castrating or faking in any way. 

Ears with a slit more than one inch in length or a part of the 
ear gone. Small holes or slits should be cut. Bad moult is not 
generally mentioned as a disqualification, but in strong competi- 
tion a specimen in a bad moult is thrown out. The standards only 
show a few points for condition, but rabbits in bad moult lose all 
their color, or the greater part of it, so they lose out on both color 
and condition of coat. The hairs are nearly all dead, and show 
little color. 



Belgian Hare Rabbit Standard. 

Shape — Body to be good length, slender, tucked up at flank and 
well ribbed up. Back a trifle arched, rounded loins. Head 
good length, chest to be muscular, tail straight, not wry tail 
or crooked, and very racy appearance. Body 10 

Chest, head and tail 10 

Color — To be a rich, deep, dark cherry red or dark mahogany 
color. Rufus red is the color generally spoken of, but very 
few fanciers have any idea what those words mean. The 
color should be uniform over head, ears, chest, feet and 
body; should be very deep, extend well over the hind quar- 
ters, and down the sides to the belly color, which is often of 
a rich golden color on some of the best colored specimens. 
The different standards call for creamy belly color. The 
under jaw should be as free from white as possible. 
Body : : 10 

Head, chest, hind quarters and tail 10 

Ticking — Rich black and very wavy in appearance. 

Color 5 

Quantity and wavy appearance 5 

Feet and Legs — Front feet and legs should be of good length, 

solid color and free from ticking (black hairs) or white hairs 5 



36 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



Hind Feet — To be rich, solid color 5 

Ears — To be five inches in length, good, rich ear lacing, which 
is the black marking around the tips of the ears. They 
should not be smudgy, but clearly marked. To be thin and 
good color and to be firmly set at ear case. 
Color 5 

Shape and carriage 5 

Weight and Coridition— Eight pounds or under. Flesh should 
be firm and solid. Does without dewlaps 15 

Eyes — Large, bright and expressive; color, rich hazel. 

Right eye 5 

Left eye 5 

Fur— Quality rich, close and free from moult 5 

100 



The Belgian Giant. 

A combination of fancy and utility rabbit. The big brother 
of the Belgian hare being the result of crossing the Belgian h 
and the Gray Flemish Giant. 

Standard^By A. E. Betts. 

Size — Large and imposing, 25 points. Cuts, 1 to 10. 

Body— Long, broad; tapering off from hips to breast; does to 
liave dewlaps evenly carried, 20 points. Cuts, 1 to 10. 

Color — Red and as deep as possible with black, rich ticking. 
Belly color to be creamy, 15 points. Cuts, 1 to 10. 

Head — Medium size, and shapely, color to match body. 

Ears — Erect, medium thick, 5% to 6 inches long, and color to 
match body, with good ear lacing. Eyes large, bold, bright ex- 
pression and brown in color, 15 points. Cuts, 1 to 15. 

Forelegs — Medium, heavy boned, solid tan color; hind legs 
strong, heavy boned with as much tan on lower part as possible, 
15 points. Cuts, 1 to 10. 

Condition — Flesh firm, not baggy, fur close coated, 10 points. 
Cuts, 1 to 5. 

Disqualifications — Crooked feet, white bars on front feet, wry 



her 
are d 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 37 




38 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 

tail, knock knees in hind legs, lop ears, off colored eye, ear canker, J 
snuffles or any disease will be sufficient cause to eject the speci- 
men from the show room. 



New Zealand Standard 

(Arranaged by C. P. Gilmore and C. S. Gibson and adopted by 
the New Zealand Club and National Pet Stock Association at the 
annual election, June, 1916). 

Head — Full and shapely. Color to match body color with as 
little white under jaw as possible. Points 5. Cuts. Vz to 3 points. 

Ears — Erectly carried. Medium thick, 5 to SVz inches long; 
color to match body color; free from black lacing. Points 10. Cuts, 
1 to 5. 

Eyes — Large, bright and hazel with as small a white eye circle 
as possible. Points 5. Cuts, V2 to 3. 

Color — Reddish buff, carried well down to the skin and evenly 
down over the sides and hind quarters; free from black hairs and 
not dark or smudgy, or light buff. Reddish cream belly color. 
Points 30. Cuts, V2 to 10. 

Shape — Body medium long and medium broad fore and hind 
quarters, does to have even dewlap. Points 10. Cuts, V2 tc 6. 

Weights — \V2 pounds at 3 months; 5 pounds at 4 months; 6 
pounds at 5 months; 8 pounds at 8 months, and does 10 pounds at 
12 months; bucks 9 pounds at 12 months. Points 20. Cuts, % to 8. 

Legs and Feet — Strong and straight ; medium heavy boned. 
Color same as body (all four feet). Points 15. Cuts V2 to 6. 

Condition — Full in coat and solid flesh. Points 5. Cuts, V2 to 3. 

Disqualifications — Lopped or fallen ear, crooked feet, faking on 
ages of juniors in junior classes, plucking or dyeing, other than 
hazel eyes, wry tail, or crooked tail, white bars on front feet. 



Steel Gray Flemish Giant Standard. 

Size and Weight— Bucks should not weigh less than 13 pounds 
and does as much over 15 pounds as possible. They should 
be large and powerful, resembling a giant in every sense 
of the word 30 

Shape of Body — Should be long and powerful, with very broad 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 39 

front and hind quarters 10 

Does to have large, full and evenly carried dewlap 5 

Color — To be uniform, dark steel gray over head, ears, chest, 

feet and body. Under tail and belly shall be as near white 

as possible. 

Body color 10 

Feet, head, chest and ears 10 

Feet and Legs— To be straight, good length and large bones. 

Fore feet 7.5 

Hind feet ,^ 7.5 

Head, Ears, Eyes — Head to be large and well shaped, color 

same as body. Ears to be large, thick, good ear carriage 

and color same as body color. Eyes to be medium size. 

dark brown and reposeful expression 10 

Condition of Flesh and Fur — Flesh firm and solid, not flabby.... 5 

Fur to be close and soft, free from moult 5 

A scale of weights will help you determine if your stock is 
the right weight. 

At four months of age they should weigh eight to nine pounds: 
at six months, ten to eleven pounds, and as much more as possi- 
ble. Most Flemish do not fully mature until they are fifteen months 
of age. 



New Gray Flemish Standard. 

(Arranged by A. E. Betts, and adopted by National Association 
Executive Board, September, 1916.) 

Size and Weight — To be as great as possible. Bucks 14 pounds; 
Does 16 pounds. Points 40. Cuts 5 points for each pound under 
weight. 

Color — Light Gray. Sandy or Reddish Gray. (Steel Gray will be 
disqualified in this variety.) Color to be as nearly uniform as pos- 
sible. Points 10. Cuts, 1 to 5. 

Head — Shall be large, broad and shapely. Eyes — Dark brown, 
medium and expression reposeful. Points 5. Cuts, 1 to 3. 

Ears — Long, thick and erect ; color to match body color as near 
a? possible. Points 5. Cuts, 1 to 3. 

Body — Large, long, good shape, with broad front and hind quar- 



40 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 




THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 41 



ters and broad chest. Does to have a strong well developed dew- 
lap, evenly carried. Points 20. Cuts, 1 to 5. 

Feet and Legs — To be strong, straight and powerful. Color 
to be as uniform as possible. Points 5. Cuts, 1 to 3. 

Condition — Fur to be close and soft. Flesh firm and solid. 
Points 15. Cuts, 1 to 10. 

Disqualifications — Crooked or deformed feet and legs, wry or 
crooked tails, lop ears, bow legs, moon eyes or white bars on front 
feet. 

Weights— Bucks— 2 months old, 4^ pounds; 3 months old, 6 
pounds; 4 months old, 8 pounds; 5 months old, 9 pounds; 6 months 
old, 10 pounds; 7 months old, 10^^ pounds; 8 months old, 11 pounds; 
9 months old, llj^ pounds; 10 months old, 12 pounds; 11 months 
old, 12^ pounds; 12 months old, 13 pounds, and 15 months old, 14 
pounds. 

Does— 2 months old, 5 pounds ; 3 months old, 7 pounds ; 4 months 
old, 9 pounds; 5 months old, 10 pounds; 6 months old, 12 pounds; 
7 months old, 13 pounds; 8 months old, 14 pounds; 9 months old, 
14J/2 pounds; 10 months old, 15 pounds; 11 months old, 15K' pounds; 
12' months to 15 months old, 16 pounds. 



Black and Other Solid Colored Giants Standard. 

Body— Same as Steel Gray Flemish 10 

Does with evenly carried dewlap 5 

Weight and Size — Same as Steel Gray Flemish 30 

Color — Solid color over head, ears, chest, feet and body. Free 

from white hairs in blacks 10 

Body Color — Head, ears, feet and chest color 10 

Head,, ears and eyes same as Steel Gray Flemish, except 
that the White Giants have pink eyes and other colored 

Giants eyes to match the body color 10 

Feet and Legs — Same as Steel Gray Flemish. 

Forefeet and legs 2.5 

Hind feet and legs 2.5 

Condition of Flesh and Fur— Fur should be close, thick, shining 
and free from moult. Flesh firm and solid, not flabby 20 

100 



+2 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 

German Checkered Giant Standard. "^ 

Color Markings— Are bred in Blue. Black. Tortoise and Gray. 

The markings slightly resemble those of the English marked 

rabbits, without the chain markings, and the loin markings 

are solid colored patches instead of dots 15 ,, 

Body Should be long and well filled out 10 

Length — Very long bodies 15 

Weight and Size — Bucks should weigh over 11 pounds and the ^ 

does over 13 pounds. To be as large as possible 15 ' 

Does with evenly carried dewlap 5 

Legs and Feet — Long, straight and large bones 5 

Shape, Legs and Feet — Long and attractive appearing and stand- .. 

ing well off the ground _ 10 

Ears — Large, erect, and good ear carriage 5 

Good color, solid as possible 5 

Condition of Flesh and Fur — Fur to be close, smooth and free *^ 

from moult 10 

Flesh — To be firm and solid 5 

100 ' 



DRESSING AND COOKINa 

While the quality of Domestic Rabbit meat is at its best when 
the animal is about 2 to 2y2 months old. the most profitable time 
to kill for market is when they are five or six months of age, when 
they should weigh at their best for this purpose. It is advisable 
to have your rabbits tame, so that they can be caught with ease 
when you are ready to kill them, thus avoiding the possibility of 
them jumping against the sides of their hutch or pen and bruising 
themselves, which will leave blood clots on the carcass that are 
detrimental. 

To kill the hare take it by the hind legs, letting the head hang 
downward; strike a quick and smart blow on the back of the head. 
Cut the throat at once, letting the rabbit bleed thoroughly. Hang 
the carcass by the gambrel cords, just as a butcher would a beef 
or sheep, to two nails in a wall or on a wooden bar made for this 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 43 



purpose. Cut an opening in the abdomen between the hind legs 
and fill the carcass with cold water two or three times. 

To remove the pelt run the knife around the first joint of the 
hind legs, then cut across near the tail from one joint to the other. 
With the hand free, draw the skin from the legs, turning it wrong 
side out and drawing down slowly towards the head, cutting all 
of the fat from the skin and leaving it attached to the carcass. Cut 
the pelvic bone and open all the way down to the neck. Remove 
the entrails, except the kidneys, cut off the feet, washing the car- 
cass thoroughly and drying it with a cloth. The liver and heart 
are to be saved, also the head, after removing the eye balls if you 
wish it. After cutting the carcass into pieces of as near uniform size 
as possible, allow it to stand in salt water for an hour or so, and 
you will then have a table delicacy, which, if properly cooked, can- 
not be surpassed. 

Do not omit the cold water treatment just after the hare has 
been killed, as this drives out .the animal heat and adds much to 
the palatability of the meat. When using more than one rabbit 
for any particular dish, it is best to use those of about the same 
age that they may cook up evenly. The meat is better if the car- 
cass is left. to hang a day or two after dressing. 

When purchasing dressed rabbits, you can easily determine 
whether the specimen is old or young by breaking the jaw with 
the thumb and finger. If it breaks easily it is young; otherwise, 
old. The flesh of recently killed hares will be dry, almost white' 
and sweet; while those that have been killed for some time will 
be blue and slimy. 

The following recipes for cooking the domestic rabbit are the 
best that can be gotten up, but many varieties can suggest them- 
selves to the cook that will improve the delicacy of the dish: 

Fried Rabbit. 

Sprinkle or roll each piece in a mixture of flour, pepper and salt, 
and fry as you would chicken to a nice brown, in butter and lard, 
from 30 to 50 minutes, owing to size and age. 

Roast Rabbit. 

The hare should be filled with a dressing made of bread crumbs, 
seasoned with salt, pepper, sage, butter and oysters ; if desired, 
moistened with hot water. Sew up. sprinkling some salt over the 
hare and place in the roaster. Put some bits of butter or fresh pork 



44 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



on it and add a little fresh water. Use a medium hot oven and 
bake from two to four hours, as is necessary. 

Stewed Rabbit. 

Put the pieces in a kettle with water enough to cover and let 
come to a boil, then skin and add some salt and a good sized piece 
of butter. Let it stew until dry and done, but do not let it burn. 
Remove the meat to a dish and put a tablesponoful of flour in the 
kettle, stir well, adding some cream or milk, pepper slightly and 
pour over the meat; or 

Place the pieces of hare with some small pieces of fresh fat pork 
into a kettle, add hot water and salt, place over fire and cook until 
done and dry. Let fry for a short time, then lift the meat into a 
dish. Put a tablespoonful of flour in the kettle, stirring well and 
adding about a pint of hot water, then pour over the hare. 

Boiled Rabbit. 

Soak fifteen minutes in warm water to draw the blood. Skewer 
the legs close to the body and put in kettle with enough hot water 
to cover, boil until tender. (Time according to age.) Dish and 
smother with mushrooms, onions, liver sauce or parsley and butter 
as preferred. If the liver sauce is used, boil the liver a little while 
and mince or rub through a sieve before adding to the sauce. 

Rabbit Pie. 

Stew the hare until done, seasoning well with butter, salt and 
pepper. Line sides of your baking pan with a crust of biscuit dough 
and after placing the pieces of the hare therein, add a few pieces 
of dough, then pour on the broth from the stew and cover with top 
crust. Bake in moderate oven about 30 minutes. 

Rabbit Salad No. 1. 

Use a hare that has been boiled until tender, cut into small 
pieces and use one part hare meat and three parts celery, which 
has also been cut. For a dressing use the yolks of four eggs, five 
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, a little salt and pepper and one dessert- 
spoonful of prepared mustard. Cook the dressing until it has the 
appearance of custard, and mix thoroughly with the hare and celery 
when all are cold. Mix a cupful of sweet cream with it when it is 
served. 

Broiled Rabbit. 

Boil in salted water for five minutes, dry and broil as quickly 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBEr GUIDE 45 

as possible. Dish on a hot platter and season with salt and butter. 
Roast Rabbit with Onions. 

Place a layer of onions in the bottom of the pan, then a layer 
of the meat, neatly cut; add another layer of onions, and alternate 
with meat until pan is filled. A double roaster is best, as it keeps 
in the steam more thoroughly. No water is needed as that is fur- 
nished by onions. 

Rabbit Mincemeat. 

Two cups of chopped meat, 1 cup molasses, 3 cups apples, 1 cup 
finely chopped suet, 1 cup cider or apple juice, 1 cup each of raisins 
and currants, 1 cups sugar, y2 teaspoonful cloves, 1 teaspoonful 
nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon ^A cupful ginger, a little citron if 
liked. 

Boil the rabbit (until the meat falls from the bone) in slightly 
salted water. Run through food chopper. Run the apples through 
chopper to make the cider, or if not juicy enough add a cup of water 
and 2 tablespoonfuls of cider vinegar. Combine ingredients and let 
simmer over a slow fire two hours. Put into jars until ready to 
use. More apples may be added when the pies are to be made. 

Emergency Pudding. 

. One-half cup (or less) of mincemeat added to any inexpensive 
cake dough makes an excellent cheap plum pudding. Serve hot with 
any good pudding sauce. 

Rabbit Salad No. 2. 

Two cups cooked rabbit, \\'2 cups celery, 3 tablespoonfuls hot 
vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, mayonnaise dressing, 2 hard boiled 
eggs. 

Cut rabbit in pieces suitable for salad or use food chopper. To 
the meat add the hot vinegar and set away to cool. When ready 
to prepare, drain off any remaining vinegar, add celery cut fine. 
Mix with mayonnaise dressing, garnish with hard boiled eggs and 
pimentos. Serve on lettuce leaves. 

Rabbit Croquettes. 

One cup cooked rabbit, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, 2 tablespoon- 
fuls flour, 1 egg, y2 cup milk, ;/ teaspoon salt, pepper to suit, 1 tea- 
spoonful of lemon juice. 



46 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



Bread Crumbs. 

Melt the butter and add flour ; remove from stove and add th-.^ 
milk. Return to stove and cook until quite thick, stirring constantly 
to make a smooth sauce. Put the meat, chopped fine, into a bowl 
and add the cream sauce, seasoning and lemon juice. Mix well. Set 
aside to cool; mould into cone shapes. Roll in flour, dip in egg 
(1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoonful of milk) and roll in the bread 
crumbs. Fry in deep, hot fat. 

A rabbit which weighs three pounds dressed should make from 
five to six cups of cooked meat, solid eating. 

The above recipes — mincmeat, salad and croquettes may be 
made from one rabbit. This gives some idea of the amount of food 
value contained in one rabbit of the domestic kind. 

Rabbit Hash. 

One and one-half cups cooked rabbit. .^4 cup boiled potatoes, Yz 
to % cup gravy, grated cheese, bread crumbs. 

Chop both meat and potatoes fine. Mix together, season highly 
and moisten with gravy. Cook in buttered ramekins or small bowls, 
cover the top with a thin layer of buttered bread crumbs, and sprin- 
kle with grated cheese. Bake fifteen minutes in a moderate oven. 

Rabbit en Casserole — "Extra Fine." 

Cut up the rabbit as for frying. Dip in sweet milk, roll in flour 
and season with salt and pepper. Fry in hot fat until a golden 
brown. Put in a caserole or any other tightly covered cooking dish, 
as a roaster, for instance, and cook in a moderate oven for 45 min- 
utes. Do not add any water. It cooks tender in its own steam. 
Reasons for cooking this way — very tender and not greasy; leaving 
the housewife free to give her undivided attention to the rest of 
her cooking which means a great deal to one getting a company 
dinner alone. 

Rabbit en Casserole No. 2. 

Cut up the rabbit as for frying, roll in flour, season with salt 
and pepper. Add a slice of salt pork or bacon chopped fine. Place 
in roaster, add one pint of boiling water, put on cover and bake 
one hour in a moderate oven. Then add the number of potatoes 
required for family and cook forty-five minutes longer. An onion 
may be added if the flavor is liked. 

Rabbit— Maryland Style. 

Cut up a rabbit, roll in flour, dip in beaten egg and roll in bread 
crumbs; place in well-greased dripping pan and bake in a hot oven. 
Raste often with melted butter or other fat. Serve with cream sauce 
poured over the rabbit. 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 47 



RABBIT DISEASES. 

Rabbits are not liable to numerous diseases if they are kept 
with care; but, if the proper attentions are denied, and the rules 
laid down for their treatment disregarded, a variety of ailments will 
result. Rabbits naturally have strong and hardy constitutions, but 
when in domestication they are attacked by many complaints, they 
are generally of a serious kind, and sometimes terminate fatally. 
Therefore, it is advisable to keep your rabbitry sanitary and watch 
carefully for any first symptoms. In other words, never allow 
the first symptoms of any complaint or disease to be neglected, 
for all ailments are more easily cured when treated at once. Then 
again, be sure and separate any diseased rabbit from the others as 
soon as discovered, because an ounce of prevention is worth a pound 
of cure. Frequently look over your stock yourself and examine 
the noses, eyes and roots of ears, also the internal ear, to detect 
any appearance of snuffles, colds, ear canker, mange or ear gum. 
Protect them from a damp and foggy atmosphere as much as pos- 
sible, as such is more injurious than a dry cold one. Ventilation, of 
course, is of vast importance, more especially in the case of inside 
hutches to which the air is only admitted through a door or window. 
A ventilator through the roof is an advantage if placed sufficiently 
above the top tier of hutches for the rabbits to escape the strong 
draught. There is no doubt that the want of a sufficient supply of 
pure air is the cause of many diseases to which rabbits are liable in 
confined hutches; cold air is not desirable, but pure air is essential. 

Some diseases or complaints are more easily cured than others, 
and frequently the most troublesome to treat are the least serious 
in their nature, while often a complaint from which a rabbit is suf- 
fering for the first time, and which, if promptly and properly met, 
would have, easily yielded, proves fatal. All complaints treated in 
time or when in the first stages, are more likely to terminate favor- 
ably, thus saving a great amount of anxiety and trouble, than if 
they be allowed to go for some time unheeded. Always remem- 
ber this, and your vigilance will be rewarded. 

Colds, nasal catarrh or snuffles, are very infectious and con- 
tagious. It bears the same resemblance to catarrh in the human 
subject, and it is to be atributed to the same cause, exposure to 
cold. The first symptoms are a slight watery discharge from the 
nostrils, sometimes a rabbit is heard sneezing, which if left uncared 
for eventually becomes of a thick and glutinous consistency and 
causes difficulty in breathing. Loss of appetite follows, and in the 
course of a few days the nostrils are apparently closed with 



^8 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



mucous, inflammation of the lungs frequently supervenes and death 
is the result. It has been carefully determined that as in the case 
of most diseases there is a germ present, which irritates the mucous 
membrane and unless checked in time, eventually proves the undoing 
of the rabbit. 

Ear canker is a discharge caused from ulceration in the deep 
recesses of the ear, which causes a caked accumulation in the ear. 
On close examination you will see little white mites present .which 
irritate the membrane and is very annoying to the rabbit. I have 
known of several cases where the ear became so caked on account 
of ill attention that the rabbit lost its appetite and succumbed. 
However, this is not always the case. 

Above all. watch your stock carefully, and you will never be 
troubled with any serious complaints. If you notice any indication 
or symptoms of complaints of the above' nature, look after it at 
once and you will eradicate it without much trouble or time. 



DISEASES AND REMEDIES. 

Like persons, hares are liable to contract diseases at any time, 
especially so unless due care is taken as to the cleanliness of hutches 
and proper attention as to feeding. Examine your hares ever so 
often and if you se one that is ailing, remove it to a separate hutch. 
As to administration, if in a liquid form, it can be placed in their 
drinking water, or a few drops on a piece of bread or cracker. If 
a pill or capsule, administer same as to a horse. I have found it 
very helpful to toast a piece of brown bread very black and place 
it in the drinking water once a week. This will do away with sick- 
ness in some cases. 

Snuffles. 

This is the most prevalent and dangerous disease known to the 
Belgian Hare. It is the result of a number of causes, such as filthy 
hutches, overfeeding or exposure to draughts. The symptoms are 
sneezing (not such as is caused by dust in the nostrils) and a dis- 
charge from the nostrils of a white mucous substance. The hare 
refuses food and its coat becomes rough and disordered. If taken 
care of promptly, it may be cured, but if allowed to run for any 
length of time, it is practically incurable, and the safest method is 
to kill the sufferer to prevent the spread of the disease. 

Treatment — As it is considered contagious, isolate the rabbit 
from the others at once, to a comfortable place, free from draughts 
and dampness. Keep it warm and tempt it to eat. Do not give it 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 49 



green food during illness. Give it dry hay and clean oats and a lit- 
tle thin gruel made of barley meal and a carrot are all good. 

There are various remedies on the market that have proven very 
successful, but as in the case of medicine, some cases can be cured, 
w^hile others prove very stubborn. Our advice is that if one remedy 
does not cure, try another, as the chances are one of three or four 
no doubt Wfill do the work. There are various experiments with 
serums going on at this time, and there is no doubt but what one 
will be discovered that will entirely make this ailment one not to be 
feared if directions are followed closely. 

If the disease is too far gone, it is advisable to kill the speci- 
men and thoroughly clean, air and disinfect the hutch before again 
using. It is easier to prevent this disease than to cure aggravated 
cases. 

Ear Canker. 

This is detected by the rabbit holding its head to one side and 
shaking its ears, and an incrustation will be noticeable in its ears. 
The animal sometimes tries to remove the incrustations with its 
back feet. There are little mites present which cause this dis- 
charge, which eventually becomes of a substance that adheres very 
closely to the ears. 

There are two or three remedies on the market which have 
proven entirely satisfactory, and there is only one complaint, that 
it leaves a stain in the ears of the rabbit. However, there are some 
that entirely cure this ailment with one or possibly two applications, 
leaving no noticeable trace. Another good treatment is as follows : 

Examine the ear thoroughly, and if you find any discharge in 
it, remove the pus with some blunt instrument or a piece of cot- 
ton, or surgeon's lint, tied to a small stick. Apply a few drops of 
sweet oil, in which you have mixed a small portion of flowers of 
sulphur. 

Slobbers. 

This disease is more prevalent among young stock and it is 
no doubt caused from the mother not providing enough natural 
nourishment, which results in them being forced to eat hay and 
grain. At that age, their digestive organs are not properly devel- 
oped to act on these foods, which causes a disease of the Salivary 
Glands. 

This ailment is characterized by a constant flow of saliva from 
the mouth, wetting the fur of the lower jaw, the chest and fore 



50 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



legs until the hare presents a very repulsive appearance. In a day 
or so, the rabbit becomes thin and weak and if the disease is not 
checked, soon dies. 

In this ailment, there are several remedies on the market that 
have proven successful and to the breeder that does not care to make 
his own remedy, it is good policy to always have some on hand, 
unless they are particular to see that the young rabbits are not fed 
hay, grain and green food before their organs are fully developed. 

Treatment — Put a small pinch of salt in the mouth and rub it 
in the wet fur about the mouth. This has been found a sure cure, 
if in addition, all blood is removed from the rabbit or rabbits for 
twelve hours. After the above treatment has been given and food 
removed, give it an entire change of diet from that previously given. 

Red Water. 

This is an affection of the kidneys and needs prompt attention. 
It is caused by cold, dampness or improper food. The urine will 
be dark and the animal out of sorts generally. 

Treatment — The animal should be as little disturbed as possible 
and should be fed on mucilaginous food as endive, dandelion, sow- 
thistle, lettuce and cooked potatoes and bran. Six drops of sweet 
spirits of nitre may now and then be given and a spoonful of water, 
in which bran has been soaked, every day until the inflammation 
ceases. The hutch should be kept well cleaned and extra warm. 

Diarrhoea. 

This disease is generally the result of permitting the hare to 
eat too much green food and wet vegetables and is an abnormal 
laxity of the bowels which greatly weakens the animal. 

Treatment — There are several remedies that have been tried by 
different breeders. I have found that to do away with all green 
foods and wet vegetables and feed them dry grain will help to put 
them in shape again, or you can give them three tablets, each tablet 
to contain % grain of calomel and 1 grain of sodium bicarbonate. 
Give them plenty of salt, either loose, if they will eat it, or place 
it in the water, once or twice a week. 

Insects. 

These pests are very seldom troublesome unless the hares are 
in poor condition and are kept in filthy quarters. 

Treatment — Apply Persian insect powder and give clean bedding 
often. 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 51 



Mange. 

This is infectious and hard to cure. Unless the animal is a 
very expensive one, it had better be killed. 

Treatment — Sulphur, if applied in time, will remedy the trouble, 
and for more advanced stages, a mixture of sulphur one ounce and 
lard four ounces, mixed v^ith a little kerosene, is effective. 

Dysentery. 

This complaint is most general in young stock and mature does. 
It is an inflammatory affection of the intestines. The symptoms 
are loss of appetite and a drawn, pinched appearance of the stom- 
ach in the region of the loins. The excrement is soft, clinging 
together, sometimes coming away in long chains. The'rabbit gen- 
erally sits crouched up, the hind legs close to the fore legs as though 
suffering from cramps. My experience has been that it is usually 
fatal. 

Treatment — Give twice daily a teaspoonful of the following mix- 
ture : To one teaspoonful of warm water add three drops of oil 
of peppermint and one drop of ether. Feed dry oats, dry bread or 
clover hay, a very little wam water, and no green feed whatever. 

Pneumonia. 

Lung fever is one of the most dangerous diseases that rabbits 
are subject to and in many instances proves fatal. The following 
treatment has been found effective, if applied in the early stages. 
You should watch closely for the symptoms, which in the first stage 
are the skin is hot and dry, the pulse and respiration frequent, gen- 
erally accompanied with restlessness. The duration of this stage 
does not exceed twenty-four hours. The second stage will be dis- 
tinguished by a slight noise, if the chest be listened to closely, 
resembling that of a lock of one's own hair rubbed between the fin- 
ger and thumb close to the ear. 

Treatment — A cathartic of canclined magnesia is of advantage 
in unloading and cleansing the stomach, preparing it for the absorp- 
tion of medicines. Dose, about three grains. Then give one drop 
of tincture of veratrum viride in a teaspoonful of warm water every- 
four hours. In addition a teaspoonful of warm lemonade will be 
of great assistance. The rabbit should be removed to a warm room 
and wrapped in flannel. A small piece of flannel should be wrung 
out of hot water and sprinkled with a teaspoonful of veratrum and 
applied to the chest; remove before getting cold. Reduce the treat- 
ments as the patient improves. 



52 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



Rot 

This generally comes from damp, or excessive moisture, unclean 
hutches or runways. It attacks mostly the young; causes a sort of 
consumption or extreme leanness ; they become covered with a con- 
tagious scabbiness and will be found laying around the runways 
dead. 

Treatment — If the hare is covered with scabs or sores, he should 
be rubbed with a salve made of sulphur and lard. Tobacco liquor 
mixed with a little Spanish fly, applied to the skin where the sores 
exist, is effective. The scruff and hair will fall off, but new fur 
will soon grow. Give bran mash, in which put a little powdered sul- 
phur. The same treatment is good for what is known as Mange. 

Abscesses. 

These come from various causes (either impure blood or hered- 
itary), overfeeding, from a scratch or bite, bruise, etc. An abscess 
generally makes its apeparance on the surface and develops and 
is easily treated and not particularly dangerous. But those that 
form internally generally prove fatal, as they are not discovered 
until too late. 

Treatment — When ripe, clip the fur from off the swelling, then 
open with a lance. Squeeze out all the pus as tenderly as possible. 
Wash with warm water and permanganate of potassium. Dissolve 
one grain in a pint of water. Dust the wound with flowers of sul- 
phur. Repeat every day until cured. 

Colic. 

The animal is restless and the belly seems more or less distended 
with wind. It is caused by indigestion or constipation. I have had 
frequent occurrences of this sort, and have found a good remedy by 
giving them a teaspoonful of Syrup of Figs and gently rubbing the 
stomach in order to move the gases. Here is another good treat- 
ment : 

Spt. Chloroform and Tr. Cardamon, each four drachms. Give 
ten drops every hour until relieved. 

Will say that the first treatment given is the most simple, and 
I have always found it very effective, as it moves the bowels and 
the rubbing has a tendency of moving the gases on the stomach and 
relieving the distended condition of the belly. 

Constipation. 

It is not generally difficult to cure if taken in time. It is caused 
by overfeeding. The rabbit is seen to mope in the corner of the 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 53 



hutch and refuse to eat, yet often seems very thirsty. You will also 
notice the absence of droppings. 

Treatment— If green food fails to give relief, give about a tea- 
spoonful of Syrup of Figs or castor oil twice a day until relieved. 

Caked Udder. 

Fed sparingly for a few days and rub gently with marshmallow 
ointment, first sponging the udder and wiping dry. 

Diseased Liver. 

This is generally caused by injudicious feeding, creating a para- 
site called a fluke, which causes the liver to decay more or less rap- 
idly, according to the constitution of the hare. If the liver is dis- 
eased, it can be cured in the early stages, but if in an advanced stage 
it is much better to kill the rabbit than to prolong its misery. The 
most noticeable symptom is heavy breathing and sometimes accom- 
panied by a noise. 

Treatment — There are several remedies, but the most appropriate 
is half a grain of calomel every twelve hours, fresh air, comfortable 
quarters and a tonic mixed with the food. 

Blindness of Young. 

If you are particularly careful with the cleaning of the hutch, 
you will never be bothered with this ailment. It is generally caused 
from the ammonia rising from the dung and urine in the hutch. The 
eye is closed and swollen. 

Treatment — Bathe the eye with warm milk and water, carefully 
pressing it open. After thoroughly cleansing and drying it with a 
soft rag, apply white ointment or vaseline and repeat the treatment 
daily. 

Sore Eyes. 

This is usually caused by a cold settling in the eyes. They 
become inflamed and there is sometimes a mattery discharge, often 
fastening the eyelids together. 

Treatment — Bathe the eyes twice daily with a lotion of water, 
two ounces; sulphate of zinc, four grains; or, with water, two ounces; 
boracic acid, four grains. Feed lightly on non-heating foods, and 
twice a week put a tiny pinch of flowers of sulphur in the mash. 
A very little of the sulphur is sufficient, just what would lay on the 
point of a pen knife. 



54 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 

_ : ___ I 

Pot Belly. 

This is prevalent in the young and is caused by insufficient exer- 
cise and an excess of bulky food, irregularly supplied. Unless , 
checked in time it proves fatal. A little experience in this shows the ' 
valuable suggestion of having runways foi the young for exercise. 
It is readily detected by the swelling of the lower part of the body. 1 

Treatment — Discontinue succulent food and substitute dry grain 
and bread toasted brown; also put a piece of scorched bread in the 
drinking water sufficient to give it the appearance of strong tea. 
Fresh air and exercise will do the rest. If the appetite is poor, tempt 
with a carrot, dandelion or sprig of parsley. 

Convulsions. 

This sometimes attacks young rabbits. It is usually caused either 
by too frequent breeding from the same stock or from overfeeding. , 
(This brings to mind another good suggestion: Change your breed- 
ing stock ever so often, enthuse new blood in their veins. This is 
easily done by getting a new buck of different strain.) 

Treatment — The best remedy is semi-starvation for a day or 
two, giving them but small quantities of hay and no other feed. Then 
by degrees let them have a portion of soakd peas or oats. Keep 
them ten days without green feed. 

Inflammation of Uterus. i 

This results from improper mating. If specimens of proper age 
and size are mated, the trouble does not occur. It is a disease slow 
to cure. 

Treatment — There are several remedies, one of the best being ' 
one drachm sulphate of zinc and one drachm laudanum, dissolved 
in a pint of distilled water. Bathe the parts with this lotion, luke- 
warm, once a day until inflammation subsides, then every other day 
until cured. Wipe the parts dry after washing, as the lotion is pois- ' 
onous and the doe may lick it off. 

Moulting. 

This period is a critical stage of young hare life. With good 
care and proper treatment, they will pull through. Keep warm, 
give plenty of clean straw bedding and give nutritious food; increase 
the warm mash to twice a day. * 

Paralysis. 

Give prompt treatment on the first indication of this disease. \ 
The usual symptoms are the rabbit will lay on the ground with its 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 55 



head drawn up over its back as in extreme pain. Remove the 
patient to warm quarters and to a board floor. Give, once a day, 
a pill made up of two grains camphor and one grain sulphate of 
iron; add enough powdered licorice and honey to make one pill. 
Gently rub the back from shoulder to rump with some good liniment 
or plain eucalyptus oil, every other day. Feed nutritious food. 

It is generally conceded that the cause of paralysis is too fre- 
quent breeding of stock, or that too much inbreeding has been 
practiced that has deteriorated the constitution to such an extent 
that paralysis is the result. This is an extremely dangerous ailment 
and the breeder should not be at all surprised if the specimen suc- 
cumbed. 

Sore Hock. 

This is generally caused by filthy hutches, dampness and sticks 
or slivers in their litter. Improper feeding will debilitate and lower 
the vitality necessary to heal wounds inflicted by their stamping, 
while the damp filth will prove a continuous irritant. 

There are remedies on the market for this ailment, which are 
very satisfactory and these remedies can be ascertained by reading 
through various pet stock journals. A good mode of treatment is as 
follows : 

First clean the hutch thoroughly; then whitewash with carbol- 
ized whitewash. Provide a good bed of dry straw or fine hay; wash 
the affected parts with warm water and carbolic soap; dry thor- 
oughly; apply carbolized vaseline in severe cases. 

Infant Mortality. 

This ailment, above all others, can be easily avoided. The cen- 
sus of opinion among breeders is that it is caused by too constant 
breeding of stock, or the breeding of unhealthy or worn out ani- 
mals. It is a dangerous one, as hundreds have ben lost from this 
ailment and no one need be surprised at results. It may also be 
caused from improper housing or feeding. 

The youngsters appear to have little or no life and begin to die 
off one by one for no apparent reason. It can only be said that to 
avoid having future trouble of this nature to be careful of your 
stock. Don't breed too often; don't breed unhealthy parents, nor 
allow the doe to raise too many young. Better have a nurse doe of 
little or no value to take care of surplus youngsters if desired to 
be saved. 



56 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



Fits or Dizzineess. 

This is likened unto an attack of paralysis. The rabbit carries 
its head on one side and its limb seem weak, and placed on the 
ground, turns around and around until exhausted when it falls over 
on its side and kicks convulsively for a few moments, then lies still. 
The cause is from indigestion and some nerve trouble. There seems 
to be little help for the sufferer and no known remedy has ever been 
discovered that would cure the rabbit in this stage. 

In the early stages when the rabbit just carries its head toward 
one side, green foods should be given, and as advocated by some, a 
tablespoonful of powdered camphor to a quart of lukewarm water 
once a day will effect relief and a cure in a majority of cases. 



I believe this is about all that might be said on diseases and 
remedies, but remember this — that if you take extraordinary good 
care of your stock and adhere strictly to the methods outlined in 
this book, you will find a saving in your profits by not losing as 
many of your stock as you would if no attention were paid to the 
details of care and management. Be your own doctor and watch 
your stock carefully. Don't think for a minute that your stock is 
going to have all of the ailments, or even any one of them, because 
you will be wrong. This has never been found true in most experi- 
ences, but it might happen if you are careless and attend to your 
stock in a haphazard manner. 



HOW TO DISPOSE OF YOUR SURPLUS. 

Remember in this day and age, the best way of disposing of i 
anything is by advertising. This has been proven time and time 
again. Don't let anybody tell you that sitting back in your chair 
and dreaming will bring you customers, because it won't. The 
power of advertising is consistent, never varying. It is a powerful ' 
instrument in shortening the distance between producer and con- 
sumer and is more essential today than ever. He who advertises 
will increase his business threefold, and even more. Business is ■ 
booming in the pet stock industry and don't you forget it. But it 
you want it, you will have to go after it. There are cases of breed- 
ers selling hundreds of dollars worth of stock from an ad costing / 
from $3.00 to $5.00 in some good advertising medium. Rabbit breed- 
'ng is becoming a business of its own. People are beginning to 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 57 



realize what a home fed rabbit is and everybody will raise them in 
their own back yard for their own consumption, the same as they 
do in Europe. There is no secret to it. It is conscientiously believed 
that the rabbit industry both for market and fancy will see wonder- 
ful advancement in the next few years. As to war hurting the indus- 
try, that is a joke. If anything, it will increase the business on 
account of the high cost of living. 

There is a wide and varied field for the rabbit breeder in adver- 
tsing. There are one hundred millions of people to be reached 
through this method. You must have clever advertising letters to 
follow up answers and be honest and upright in your dealings with 
customers. If you were trying to convince some one who called 
at your place as to the value of rabbits as a food commodity and 
for fancy, you would try to attract their attention, and then put 
up your argument why they should buy from you. Do precisely 
the same with your advertisement or reply, attract your customer's 
attention and keep him interested. 

In writing your copy, use short, familiar words. People would 
take the trouble to guess what you mean, so be explicit. Don't over- 
promise. Remember that "Fair Play" is the best in the long run. 
Many advertisements do not require illustration, but if in order to 
catch the reader's eye you desire some illustration, this may be very 
helpful 

Another thing to bear in mind is that continuous advertising 
pays, providing you have the stock to sell. The way to be sure 
folks remember, is to never let them forget. You will find that the 
most successful advertisers are those who never quit. 

If, after you get an order, you find that there is going to be 
any delay on your part, send a letter or postal to explain matters 
and to acknowledge the order. People who have spent their money 
are entitled to know definitely what you are doing with their money 
and how soon you can take care of them. Such courtesy will 
increase your business. Be fair, frank and liberal. Tell the truth 
and don't exaggerate. Keep your promises and satisfy your cus- 
tomers, so they will send their friends to you. That is the secret 
of successful advertising. 

If, however, one wishes to establish a local market for food, my 
previous article will no doubt be of interest. , 



58 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



SOMETHING OF VITAL IMPORTANCE. 

In all my experience, I have always boosted Branch Pet Stock 
Associations, or the National Pet Stock Association. If there are 
several breeders in one town or city, my advice would be to get 
together and organize a local pet stock club. You will be surprised 
at the increase of interest and business and the many members that 
in time will come into the fold. Meetings can be made very inter- 
esting and table shows can be held to increase interest in the fancy 
end of the industry. Annual shows can also be held where prize rib- 
bons and cups can be awarded. 

If data is desired as to organizing a branch association, a let- 
ter directed to Chas. S. Gibson, 1045 West Warren Avenue, Detroit, 
Michigan, will bring an immediate reply as to the method. Mr. Gib- 
son is secretary of the National Pet Stock Association of America. 
Dues $1.00 a year with a year's subscription to a pet stock magazine 
free. This association is composed of the largest breeders in Amer- 
ica and at the present time has over 2,000 members. It has a com- 
plete registration system for pet stock and furnishes a market and 
protection for its members. 

The dues of a local branch are generally $1.00 per year and a 
year's subscription to a pet stock magazine can be given free, at 
a cost of 25 cents for each member. Money can be gotten into the 
treasury by various means — holding table shows and charging entry 
fees of 10 cents a head and awarding first, second and third prize 
ribbons, and like some associations are doing, make an extra charge 
for the ribbons to cover expense. Then raffles for different animals 
donated by its members is another source of revenue. 

Above all, don't forget to boost locally, as that will increase 
interest, business and profits> Branch Associations can become a 
member of the National by paying charter fees of $2.00 per year. 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 59 



MISCELLANEOUS POINTERS FOR THE GOOD OF THE 
INDUSTRY. 

Don't feed musty hay. 

Do not feed peach tree branches. 

Don't change the diet too suddenly. 

Keep a chunk of rock salt in the hutch 

Rabbits should not be handled by the ears. 

Don't wean the young under six weeks of age. 

Always take the doe to the buck's hutch when breeding. 

Keep each doe in a separate compartment, after being bred. 

Don't begin with a large number, learn something about them 
first. 

Does should not be handled or shipped after they are two weeks 
pregnant. 

A doe can be bred at six months of age, but eight months is the 
proper age. 

Don't overfeed green stuff, and never feed it to the young stock 
when it is wet. 

Avoid frightening the rabbits, as it will cause them to stampede, 
which is injurious. 

If your buck is a good one, do not allow him to serve more than 
three does per week. 

Avoid second growth clover hay to the young, as it is almost 
sure to cause slobbers. 

Always handle your stock gently and you will have pets. They 
appreciate gentleness and kindness. 

Does suckle their young very early in the morning and late at 
night ; very seldom at any other time. 

Don't let your neighbor talk you into the notion that rabbits do 
not require water. It should be before them at all times. 

Rabbits will eat anything a sheep will. They should be fed regu- 
larly and with judgment. Study their habits and you will be richly 
repaid. 

It is most profitable to sell your young stock when they become 
of breeding age, instead of disposing of them earlier, as you secure 
better prices. 

When a buck serves a doe once it is sufficient. Experience has 
shown that a doe will kindle with more young from one good service 
than from two or three. 

Don't expect your rabbits to do well in a 1x2 hutch; 3x6 is not 
too big, especially for does with j^oung. The more room for the 
young to exercise the better. 



60 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



Bucks become virile at about four months of age, but do not 
reach perfection until about seven or eight months old, and should 
not be used for breeding purposes until matured. 

Does may be kept together in one compartment until they are 
bred, but each buck must have a separate hutch after they are three 
months old, or they will injure each other by fighting. 

In raising rabbits, it is a mistake to crowd too many litters 
on a doe. Four a year is plenty; three is better, and when there are 
more than six in the litter a nurse doe should be provided. 

In raising rabbits you have no lice or mites to contend with, as 
with chickens. Neither have you to watch the incubator for three 
weeks, only to find that hardly one-half of the eggs will hatch. 

If a doe commences building her nest and pulling hair two weeks 
after being bred, it is almost a sure indication that she is not with 
young and that she desires to mate. Breed her and save two weeks 
time in obtaining a litter. Always take the doe to the buck. 




GERMAN CHECKERED GIANT. 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 61 



QUERIES AND ANSWERS. 

Should does be bred immediately after kindling? Decidedly no. 

What is the best food, especially for nursing does? Bread, milk, 
and rolled oats are excellent. 

Where is there a market for meat stock? Wherever the Bel- 
gian hare has been introducd. 

How shall I treat a hare that is affected with kidney weakness? 
To produce action on the kidneys, give sweet spirits of nitre. 

Will a doe breed before her young are weaned? Yes, but should 
not be bred under thirty days from time of kindling. 

What causes a mother to refuse to care for her young after 
kindling? Frequently by being disturbed just before kindling. 
Oftener no known cause. 

How often can a doe, with the very best of care, be bred? Five 
times a year is as often as a doe should ever be bred, and four times 
IS better. 

How is the best way to handle hares without hurting them or 
endangering yourself? Place the right hand over the ears, slipping 
the thumb under them, then grasp a firm, full hold of the back of 
the neck, placing the left hand under the hind quarters, so as to 
place the weight of the animal on this hand. 

How can sexes in young hares be distinguished in young hares 
one-half to three months old? By careful examination the teats can 
be discovered on the does. 

When it is impossible to make does breed before you desire to 
ship them, what is the best course to pursue? When a doe will not 
breed of her own accord, the only thing to do is to wait until she 
will. Does have: been known to refuse to breed for five weeks, 
although given a chance every day during this time. 



62 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 



RABBIT NOTES. 

Kid gloves from rabbit skins are in demand, as they are said to 
be softer, more pliable and wear better than those made from other 
skins. 



Rabbits are very dainty about their eating; they w^ill eat nothing 
but the cleanest of food. They should be fed especially for firm- 
ness and sweetness of flesh. 



In 1912 over 80,000,000 rabbits were sold in the municipal markets 
of France, the model country; the model country of the world in 
point of thrift. 



Many of the best physicians recommend rabbit meat for aged 
and run-down people, on account of its great nutritive value and 
the fact that it is so easily digested. 



Rabbits do not require as much space as chickens, so another 
point is added in their favor, and the costof raising has been proven 
much lower a number of times, say rabbit owners. 



It is predicted by the best fanciers that this occupation which 
is now in its infancy will be the largest of any known industry in 
points of numbers engaged in it, and that within a very few years. 



In the United States we have family after family, millions of 
them, in fact, complaining of hard times and yet buying high priced 
meat, and nine chances out of ten, their back yard is grown high 
with nutritious weeds which could be turned into delicious rabbit 
fries with a little initial cost and trouble. 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 63 

I TABLE Oh CONTENTS I 



* 



I 



Page % 

Preface 1 | 

Origin of Belgian Hare 2 ^ 

The Rabbit Business, Its Outlook 4 ♦ 

How to Begin 5 % 

Hutches 6 |^ 

1^ Outside Hutches 7* 

I Plans for Hutches 7-8-9-10-11 | 

^ Feeding 11 |; 

^ Breeding , ^ 14 * 

* Care, Exercise, Etc 16 ♦:» 

I The Utility Side 19 % 

|| Pedigrees and Registration 20 *| 

* New Zealands 21 ♦ 

* Flemish Giants 24 % 

^ German Checkered Giants 28 % 

* Preparing for Exhibition 28 ^ 

*i> Crating- and Shipping 30 % 

% Caponizing 32 ± 

J Rabbit Pelts 33 | 

* Standards for Judging — % 

t Belgian Hares 35 | 

*i The Belgian Giant 36 *> 

I New Zealands 38 $ 

I Steel Grey Flemish Giant 38 $ 

J New Grey Flemish 39 f 

'* Black and Solid Color Giants 41 % 

* German Checkered Giants 42 % 

i; Dressing and Cooking 42 J; 

* Rabbit Diseases 47 % 

% Diseases and Remedies 48 Z 



64 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY RABBIT GUIDE 

j^ How to Dispose of Surplus 56 || 

♦ Something of Vital Importance 58 f^ 

% Miscellaneous Pointers 59 ♦> 

X Queries and Answers 61 |j 

I Rabbit Notes 62 * 

t t 



<* 



t Index to Illustrations % 

t * 

♦ Page % 
% The Author 1 I 

♦ Exhibition Type Belgian 4 % 

S Hutches, Plans and Diagrams 7-8-9-10-11 "^ 

% A Belgian Doe Winner 12 »> 

|| Heavy Weight Type New Zealand 13 % 

♦ Good Type Belgian 15 % 

t A New Zealand Red 22 ♦ 

% Steel Gray Flemish Giant 23 % 

f A Black Flemish Giant 24 % 

»> Extra Fine Steel Grey Flemish 26 f 

% White Giant Doe 31 | 

♦ A Good Belgian Specimen 37 % 

♦> A Bunch of Steel Grey Flemish 40 | 

^ German Checkered Giant 60 ♦ 

*** t 

♦ T 



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